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What You Should Know Before You Have Your Nails Done!
Prepared by Cindy Story
Master Nail Technician
La Cupola, Hair Salon and Beauty Centre
Mississauga, On.

Susan Stein of Foothill Ranch snagged a finger on her soapy hair about a year ago. She expected to find a crack in one of her MMA-based acrylic nails. But as the water cleared the shampoo bubbles away, she noticed that the acrylic nail was lifting off her finger, taking the natural nail with it. And the same thing was happening on her other fingers.

Helen Gomez of Mississauga, On. had her nails done for 2 years at what she considered a reputable salon in Brampton. She repeatedly questioned her nail technician as to the condition of her natural nails and was repeatedly assured that they were fine. Three years ago, just a few days before Christmas, Gladys decided not to travel to Brampton and chose to have her nails done in Mississauga. When her new technician (Cindy MacNeil) began to perform the service both the technician and Gladys were horrified. As bits of loose MMA-based acrylic came away so did Gladys’ natural nail. All of her natural nails were the consistency of wet toilet paper. The MMA was so thick (in spite of the appearance of thin nails) that the service took over 3 hours just to remove the enhancements and two years before healthy nails began to emerge. This is a sad reality of MMA enhancements.... you don’t see the damage until it is too late. It can take up to one year for the nail to replace itself and hopefully it is not permanently deformed.

Last year women spent more than $4 billion on artificial fingernails and business continues to boom. But underneath that veneer is a chaotic scene of unanswered questions, brutal competition and even claims of racism. At issue is a chemical called Methyl methacrylate, or MMA. Millions of women who paid for acrylic nail services in recent years may have been unknowingly exposed to the chemical, which has been blamed for fungal infections, nail plate damage, nail loss and deformation, loss of sensation in the fingertips and respiratory aliments and other numerous problems. In 1974 the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA) declared it to be a Poisonous and deleterious (harmful) substance A when used on fingernails. Responsible manufacturers quickly and voluntarily switched their salon clients over to Ethyl methacrylate (EMA), a more expensive and safer bonding liquid. Reputable nail salons followed suit. The difference in EMA and MMA is the same as the difference between wood alcohol (methanol) and beverage alcohol (ethanol). Wood alcohol when consumed is deadly. Beverage alcohol is considered safe (if not used in excess!).

MMA is safely used to make resins, plastics, and specifically plastic dentures. In the case of the dental industry these processes are done outside of the mouth. Once cured, dental composites are safe when placed in contact with human tissue. The exposure rate is also different. Acrylic nails are filled every 2 - 3 weeks. A dental client may only have a few prostheses throughout their lifetime.

Discount salons may offer a full set of nails for $25 compared to $50 or more at their competitors. Some of the differences can be explained by the low overhead of the discount salons, which often operate in cheap storefronts and rely on poorly trained, low wage technicians. But the main reason for this price difference is the use of MMA which can cost as little as $15 a gallon compared to as much as $300 for a gallon of EMA.

The problem with MMA is that its atoms are so small that they easily penetrate the skin and nail plate. MMA is a Asensitizer@ that can cause irritation and allergic reactions once it is in contact with the skin. EMA is much safer, larger in atomic size, and doesn’t damage nail plates. It is also hundreds of times less likely to cause allergic reactions.

While it is the incredible strength of MMA enhancements that attracts some users, it is not appropriate or safe for use on soft nail tissue. MMA-based products have extremely poor adhesion. For enhancements to adhere, the natural nail plate receives severe abrasions (horizontal grooves carved by a large oversized drill bit). The nail plate must be overly filed (drilled) and excessively thin before the methyl methacrylate artificial nail is applied. It is this dangerous strength that increases the potential for nail damage when applied to the weakened nail plate. If the nail breaks the whole nail plate may be removed. Women have had their natural nails ripped out (sometimes permanently) because the MMA acrylic did not break off when exposed to trauma.

Salons using large or oversize brushes in order to save time, make beads of acrylic that are far too wet! The belly of a large brush can carry enough liquid for 4 medium wet beads (or three nails)! This means the product, which may appear to be hardened, does not set up in the correct amount of time and the harmful chemical MMA leeches through the nail plate, into the nail bed and then directly into the blood stream. In short, brushes that are too large don’t save time, they can lead to serious allergic reactions.

MMA creates nails which are not easily removed without causing severe damage to the nail plate. It takes only 30 - 35 minutes to remove a set of EMA-based acrylics by soaking in acetone but up to 2 hours to remove MMA-based ones. In order to save time, discount salons often pry or nip the acrylic nail off which pulls off layers of the natural nail and may injure the matrix (which is crucial in the formation of cells for the new nail) leading to permanent deformities of the nail.

HAZARD SUMMARY from the Materials Data Safety Sheet

  • MMA has a strong, sharp, fruity odour and can affect you when breathed in.

  • It may damage the developing fetus.

  • Exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, and throat.

  • MMA can cause a skin allergy.

  • Exposure could damage the nervous system. Symptoms may include Apins and needles@, numbness, weakness, and changes in the ability to remember and concentrate.

  • Severe side effects may include abnormal liver or kidney function, nervous system damage and reproductive problems.

Have You Been Exposed to MMA?

Heres how to tell:

  • Low pricing for acrylic service (not a special sale or offer).

  • Acrylic difficult or impossible to remove with acetone or other solvents.

  • Technicians or management secretive about acrylic product brands used. Just because they have a Name brand polish in the salon does not mean they are using that brand of acrylic. Ask to see original containers.

  • Technicians often wear masks to prevent inhalation of the powerful distinct odour - Noxious, sharp and fruity.

Based on available information, I believe knowingly using MMA is irresponsibly endangering the client’s health. It is inexpensive to buy and its use it obviously driven by greed and not professional concern for clients.

When in doubt, pick a knowledgeable, reputable technician and choose UV Gel Nails, Silkwraps, Fibreglass or a Natural Nail Manicure. Ask many questions and if the tech cannot answer them to your satisfaction choose another salon. It’s your health that is at stake.

Reasons Why MMA Should Not Be Used in Salons

  MMA is too hard.   The natural nail under MMA products can be damaged or even torn off by even a slight bump to the finger.
  Nail Damage. In order to make MMA stick, some technicians roughen the natural nail too much.
  FDA Warning.  The FDA says MMA is "a poisonous and deleterious substance" and should not be used in artificial nail products.

Signs of a Safe Salon
When choosing a salon, consumers should look for:
  Licenses.  Both the salon and each operator should have a license with a photo.
  Cleanliness.
  Disinfection procedures.
  Labeled containers.   Make sure that operators are using substances that come from manufacturers' labeled containers. This is not a guarantee of safety, however, since inspectors believe some salons may pour MMA-based substances into bottles.
  Small brushes.   Artificial nail enhancement products should not come in contact with skin during application. A brush larger than your finger makes this difficult, if not impossible. Operators using MMA often use a very large brush.

Warning Signs for Consumers
  No licenses visibly posted.
  Low prices.   Low prices can be an indicator that inexpensive MMA-based products are being used.
  Strong odor.  MMA has a pungent chemical odor that can cause dizziness or lightheadedness. (Masks, however, are not necessarily an indicator of MMA use.)
  Dirty or unsanitary conditions.
  Large brushes.  Brushes larger than your finger make it likely that the substances being used might come into contact with your skin. Operators using MMA often use a very large brush.

Consumer Safety Note:
Due to the coarseness of MMA, operators often use an electric file to finish the nail. Electric files can be safe if properly used and their metal bits are cleaned and disinfected after each use. Sanding sleeves are single-use items and must be thrown away after each use. DO NOT ALLOW A TECHNICIAN TO USE DIRTY OR PREVIOUSLY USED FILES OR BITS FOR ELECTRIC FILES ON YOUR NAILS! Make the technician use clean implements and files on each time you visit the salon.

Alternatives to Acrylic Nails
Acrylic nails can, and should be, safe when properly applied and maintained. But there are alternatives for women who want to be absolutely sure of avoiding potentially dangerous MMA-based products:
  Light-cured gels.   Light-cured gel products are applied with a small brush, then placed under an ultraviolet light in order for the product to harden. The gels are the consistency of honey, and either clear or colored. There is no combining of products, so if a salon uses a mixture of liquid and powder, this is not a gel. Gels can be applied over the natural nail, over tips, or extended with a form.
  Wraps.   Wrap products include silk, linen and fiberglass. Mesh is applied over the nail or tip, then a resin is brushed over the entire nail. An activator is sometimes used to speed up the set of the resin.
  Natural-nail manicures.   Natural-nail cultivation products and procedures have become quite advanced. Various types of manicures can help develop stronger, healthier nails.
 

Compiled for ABCNEWS by Nancy King, a licensed nail technician and independent industry consultant who has served as an expert witness in lawsuits against salons accused of using MMA-based products.

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